A young winegrower transforming the land into identity and future
edited by Giorgia Del Bianco
Talking to Marta Venica It is like opening a window onto a world of authentic and inalienable values: the desire to remain true to oneself, curiosity as a daily engine and the ability to recognise beauty in simple things. Marta is a brilliant young woman, instinctive and reflective at the same time, capable of constantly questioning what she knows in order to grow, learn and transform herself.
Just like her wines, she is constantly evolving. And this is perhaps the trait that makes her bottles so recognisable: when you uncork them, you can perceive the scent of research, the savour of clear and profound ideas, but also the delicacy of someone who has mastered the art of sharing. Born in 1994, Marta represents a new generation of winemakers who know their roots perfectly well. Her family has passed on to her passion and respect for a universe that often seems to follow immutable rules, but still manages to create a bridge between tradition and the future. In 2019, she decided to undertake a small, courageous folly: to found her own farm in the hills of Dolegna del Collioa stone's throw from the Slovenian border. He brings with him years of experience, studies, insights and travel that have enriched his view of wine and the world. He has gathered every lesson as one does with the best grapes: carefully choosing what deserved to be cherished and turning it into something deeply his own.
So backpack on our shoulders: we too set off to discover his little corner of paradise, as his eighth vintage silently approaches.
Watchword: indigenous varieties
Ribolla gialla, friulano and malvasia istriana are the main varieties I work with, along with merlot. My choices stem from respect for the land, both culturally and naturally. The ponca of the hills allows the grapes to reach full ripeness, thus expressing their full potential, enriched by the area's unique microclimate. The vineyards are located on different hillsides, which is why I work a lot on zoning; however, the harvest takes place at the same time, because I want to perceive the vineyard as a harmonious whole, without manipulating the wine in the cellar according to personal tastes. For example, in the Martissima Collio BiancoThe ribolla gialla loses some of its tannic component and is balanced by the Friulano, which is more immediate and ready, while the malvasia adds aromatic depth.
Wine that tells its own story
One of my goals is to enhance the Ribolla Gialla in purity and the results are proving me right. This is a grape variety that is traditionally vinified in white and has a very precise identity. Its physical characteristics, in particular its crisp, thick skin, make it unique and particularly suitable for vinification with a light maceration: just one night in contact with the skins, sufficient to preserve and enrich its organoleptic profile, giving it fascinating nuances and an extraordinary capacity to evolve over time. The sparkling version represents a novelty in recent years, while Ribolla Gialla vinified in purity has often been underestimated. When opening a bottle, the customer often does not know what to expect, and this can be confusing: its aromas can range from fruity to floral or even woody notes, surprising the taster. Precisely because for a long time it was considered a light and not very prestigious variety, I feel the desire to restore its dignity and value. Starting from a vineyard of great interest, I am able to obtain an elegant wine, characterised by a marked salinity, which best expresses the qualities of ponca and the authentic potential of this extraordinary grape variety.
The vitality of the soil makes the wine wise
Since I took over the vineyards, I have chosen to follow organic farming, which is also favoured by the nearby forests and the biodiversity that inhabits them.
In addition, I carry out regenerative soil cultivation, using live fertilisers obtained from organic farm waste. The effects on the soil - and consequently on the vine - are obvious: greater plant vitality, more resistance to fungal attacks and a surprising wealth of wild herbs and flowers.
A living land is a strong, healthy land, capable of defending itself without the need for excess. It is work that requires continuity and dedication, but which over time restores balance.
Weedkiller alert
It still makes an impression to know that in 2026 many farmers will still be using them. Today there are less invasive and much more respectful technologies. We often talk about sustainability, but it is the concrete actions that will really make the difference.
Senza meja: without boundaries
At a time when borders seem to divide the world again, the new generation of winegrowers is fighting a different battle: that against cultural distances. 25 producers from a wide area including: Colli Orientali, Colli, the Karst, Aquileia and Brda - Slovenia's hilly wine region - meet, mingle and grow together. It is not just a matter of sharing ideas: they support each other, compare notes, sometimes tolerate each other, but always with the common desire to improve. Projects are numerous, the desire to build is concrete and values speak a common language.
Woman as strength, not fragility
Being a woman in the world of wine is no longer an exception and, personally, I have never perceived mistrust from colleagues. Many women, before me, have left an important mark in this sector, and I believe that today there is respect and recognition. The difficulties, rather, come from other areas of society, where you still have to prove your worth. It is there that one feels a lack of trust and consideration, and that is something I regret.
A memory preserved in a bottle
It was 2015, at the end of my apprenticeship. On that occasion, Mr Helmut Dönnhoff made a gesture that I will always carry with me: he uncorked one of his most precious and rare bottles, a Riesling Eiswein Oberhäuser Brücke 1994. This is a rare wine, produced only in special years, when the grapes are left to freeze naturally on the vine and harvested only at temperatures below -7 degrees. It was a thank you that moved me deeply. To this day that bottle accompanies me on every move, like a small symbol of gratitude and memory.
A future built on quality
Quality is a difficult word to define. For me, it means being able to invest time in practices that respect the vine and nature, with the aim of achieving lasting results. I would also like to devote more energy to telling people what I do: to better communicate my work and share the path I am building, in my own small way. My 4.6 hectares are enough for me; I want to take care of them without chasing after greatness at all costs. The conservative restoration of the farmhouse I bought is also part of this dream: I imagine a space dedicated to tastings, capable of welcoming curious people from all over the world.
Argentina that smells like home
My trip to Argentina is proof of this. In a surprising way, I found a fragment of Friuli there. By a curious chance, a vineyard of Tocai Friulano had been planted in an area where nobody knew this variety: at the foot of the Andes. In that very different context, the vine developed characteristics that were profoundly influenced by the local territory and climate. Together with my friend Paula Michelini, we decided to embark on a fascinating project: to vinify both Argentinian Friulano and Collio Friulano, to observe how the same vine can change depending on where it grows. It is extraordinary to understand how much the territory can affect the identity of a wine, shaping its expression, character and personality. It is precisely from this reflection that a boxed set dedicated to this experience of comparison will be born: two wines from vineyards of the same age, both cultivated according to organic principles, which nevertheless tell different stories, simply because they have their roots in opposite parts of the world.
Best wishes to Marta, and to all of us
Travelling. This is the word I repeat with most conviction. Because travelling means growing, widening one's gaze, letting oneself be crossed by new cultures and different ways of thinking. Every experience adds something, fills the human baggage before the professional one. To young people my invitation is simple and very powerful: throw yourself in, without fear, without waiting for 'the right moment'. Because any opportunity let go is unlikely to return.
And perhaps this is precisely the feeling that remains after speaking with Marta Venica: the certainty that wine, when born from sincere hands and an authentic vision, is not just something to drink. It becomes a story, a journey, a gesture of love towards the land and towards the future. And in her little corner of Collio, Marta is already building this future, harvest after harvest, with the stubborn grace of one who has chosen to believe in her dreams to the end.
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