The historic market of San Benedetto. Discovering the 'Parthenon' of the Cagliaritans

The St Benedict's market is the first place to see to grasp, at a glance, the ironic nature of the Cagliaritanitheir hospitality and the authenticity of the flavours of Sardinia.
Cagliari is a very youthful, dynamic and bubbly city that nevertheless retains authentic and picturesque corners. An ancient stronghold founded by the Phoenicians in the 8th century B.C., it reached
its splendour with the advent of the Carthaginians, who turned it into the beautiful Karalis with its elegant palaces and noble villas overlooking the harbour.
Wandering through narrow alleys and flower-filled squares, it is not difficult to arrive at the San Benedetto civic market, and although the exterior is not very inviting, stepping into one of the
many entrances to the square, one finds oneself immersed in a surreal atmosphere of shouts, laughter and exotic-sounding, mysterious dialect words.
Letting yourself be guided by the intense aromas emanating from the various stalls is a sensory experience not to be missed. It is difficult, then, to choose who to trust and what to taste: the proposal is rich and varied but all strictly made in Sardinia!
The birth of this market dates back to 1800, when the first shacks dedicated to selling meat appeared. Within a few years, however, many others were added, selling a little bit of everything and, in a short time, chaos spread, so that the municipal administration decided to build a fixed market, which, due to its original features and its portico supported by Doric columns, was nicknamed by the people of Cagliari 'Il Parthenon"Outside, the famous 'picioccus de crobi', translated as 'basket boys', gathered, orphans and paupers who offered to help the ladies of Cagliari carry their shopping in exchange for a few coins.
However, it was demolished in 1949 because it no longer met the needs of the city and was now considered outdated and unsuitable for the city context.
The current one, which will soon undergo further refurbishment, was built in the late 1950s on the ashes of its predecessors and was officially inaugurated on 1
June 1957. It consists of a two-level structure of about 4000 square metres and with over 200 operators present, it is considered one of the largest in Europe and certainly in Italy. The first
floor is divided between counters dedicated to fruit and vegetables, meats of all kinds and foodstuffs of all kinds, including eggs, cheeses, cured meats, wines, as well as bars, bakeries, sweets, all
fresh and genuine products from all over Sardinia. A popular destination for tourists, the market also offers take-away and street food such as the classic cartocci di
fried fish but also some specialities such as sushi, prepared of course with local fish.
The real show, however, is in the basement with the fish market, a floor full of colour and charm, of surprisingly pleasant voices and smells, because everything is so fresh. With its basins of leaping fish from the rich local sea, its extraordinary variety of catch and its excellent value for money, it attracts patrons and the adventurous alike: a large assortment of foodstuffs, competitive prices and above all the quality of the products at true 0 km make it the ideal place for gourmands the more curious who will also be able to discover new recipes or unusual combinations of products proposed by the stall owners, who are always kind and generous with culinary advice for anyone interested.
Lobsters, crabs and crustaceans of all kinds, botargo, swordfish, mussels, sea bass, gilthead bream, and clams are just some of the fish you will find waiting for you on the stalls. The San Benedetto market is part of the city's DNA and folklore: proof of this is the famous nursery rhyme sung during the days of Cagliari's Carnival, which goes Cambara, cambara e maccioni, pisci urrè, sparedda e mummungioni (Prawns, shrimps and gobies, damsels, sparlotte and mormungioni) with which the various traditional masks born from the comic exasperation of the characters that crowd these places, mimic the calls of the fishmongers. If you want to eat fresh fish of excellent quality, discover what the 'locals' eat, or simply be fascinated by the wealth of goods on offer and the lively atmosphere, this is the place to be! Cagliari's San Benedetto market is the truest and most characteristic expression of the city's spirit, a whirlwind of colours, scents and flavours that enchants regular customers as well as tourists discovering it for the first time.
The beauty of the San Benedetto market is the human contact, the gift you don't expect, the samples offered by the exhibitors who never fail to bring a smile to your face.