trabocchi food lifestyle

The Trabocchi. Eating fish lulled by the sea

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Suspended between sky and sea, the trabocchi represent the last outpost of the mainland. Fascinating, lonely and steeped in saltiness, they emerge from the coast with their long arms stretching out into the sea in search of fresh fish.
Made of Aleppo pine wood, a common tree of the Mediterranean maquis, resistant to the saltiness of the sea and endowed with the elasticity that is essential to resist the gusts of the Mistral wind, the trabocchi consist of a platform, in a transverse position with respect to the coast, stretching out over the sea and well anchored to the seabed. They are found in Abruzzo, often on shallow shores, and in Puglia, where they are anchored to a rocky outcrop. The trabocchi convey that simplicity and genuineness typical of the people of the sea: intense flavours resulting from the freshest ingredients, skilfully arranged in light marinades with the scent of the Mediterranean scrubland behind them. These unusual giants, emerging from the waters, are fishing machines on stilts, which, according to some accounts, should be credited to the Phoenicians: however, there is no written evidence to confirm this. It is assumed that they were invented by man in order to avoid facing the open sea and reduce risks to a minimum.
The oldest existing documents record its presence on the Abruzzo coastline already around 1240 AD. The trabocchi are true architectures resulting from human ingenuity handed down orally for centuries but never transcribed: no drawings or calculations were ever found to prove their existence, but certainly the ancient overflowers were fearless builders, who knew how to bring the overflow structure to perfection, studying low tides, moons, the sea and its life. Also somewhat vague is the information on theetymology of 'overflow' which, if
on the one hand, it is thought to derive from the Latin word trabs meaning wood or tree or house, on the other hand the technique of configuring stakes between the rocks 'through holes' seems more reliable. Then there are those who maintain that it is nothing more than the 'overflow', which is stretched out to the fish. In short, the mystery surrounding these ancient machines seems unsolvable, but
Our coasts are certainly rich in them, especially those of Abruzzo and Puglia, although there is no shortage of examples in many other regions.
The trabocchiThey are generally located entirely in the water and connected to the mainland by means of a transverse gangway. Long wooden booms known as flagpoles extend out to sea, consisting of 'antennae' and 'antennas', which serve to support the four corners of the large net, known as the balance, lowered and hoisted with the help of a large winch in the centre of the platform. The wooden cabin, originally used for shelter in bad weather and for storing equipment, now exudes intense aromas as the tools have been replaced by frying pans and casseroles and the fishermen have been joined by skilled wives and excellent cooks. D'Annunzio himself was enchanted by them, calling them 'colossal spiders' in his work 'The Triumph of Death'.
The trabocchi have for centuries been the livelihood of entire generations of fishermen, who have handed them down from father to son. From efficient and prosperous 'fishing machines' they have been transformed, over time, into architectural elements that enhance theaesthetic and landscape aspect of the area in which they are anchored. They have created evocative restaurants with incredible views and evocative colours, arousing great emotions and unforgettable evenings in which to enjoy unique and genuine flavours straight from the sea. Today the trabocchi are used for
revalue, with a touch of tradition, the gastronomic culture of our coasts.
These old fishing piles are an example of how catering can captivate by combining traditional fish dishes, freshly caught, with the enhancement of excellent land-based ingredients, leaving an unforgettable gastronomic experience combined with an indelible emotional experience.

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